http://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/17/dining/a-well-behaved-bistro-classic-for-chardonnay.html 2014-09-15 23:04:45 A Well-Behaved Bistro Classic for Chardonnay A monkfish dish that plays nicely with Australian chardonnays === Raised in Australia’s cooler microclimates, these well-behaved chardonnays do not make stringent demands on the palate, the budget or the menu. The characteristic that defines them might be described as a certain racy tartness. They should not be bullied by what’s served alongside. This dish has a tangy caper sauce, a well-behaved bistro classic with enough butter to add richness. The fish is cooked on one side (what the French call à l’unilateral), allowing it to bronze attractively without overcooking. Monkfish works best, but other firm white-fleshed fillets, like hake or even thin slices of swordfish, can be used. It’s a technique you can also apply to ingredients like veal paillards and calf’s liver. Some roasted vegetables, including a mix of small potatoes, cremini mushrooms and cauliflower clusters, are a perfect accompaniment. Recipe: