http://www.nytimes.com/2016/04/27/dining/asheville-all-souls-pizza-david-bauer.html 2016-10-13 07:12:46 Pizza From the Grain Up At All Souls Pizza in the Blue Ridge Mountains, the pies begin with the mill. === ASHEVILLE, N.C. — This mountain city is rightly known for many things: the That may be about to change, thanks to The man responsible for that crust is David Bauer, a self-effacing 36-year-old and a pioneer in the movement to use local freshly milled grains. Mr. Bauer commissions small regional farms to grow heirloom varieties of wheat and corn: Turkey Red, Red Fife and Appalachian White wheats, along with Cateto and Caribbean landrace corn for All Souls’ polenta-crust pizzas. All Souls’ custom stone mill, designed by the baker “All Souls really exemplifies Fresh milling is all the rage these days. Unlike with a classic Neapolitan pie, which has a pale crust puffed and blistered black in an ultrahot oven, All Souls fires its pies cooler to bring out three colors: black bubbles of char, a deep gold that signals the sugars in the dough have caramelized, and a soft white underbelly. Mr. Bauer also fine-tunes the blend of wheat to showcase the chef Brendan Reusing’s seasonal toppings. In summer, Mr. Bauer adds more white wheat to complement greens and fresh cheeses. In winter, he mills the flour darker, adding more red wheat and increasing the amount of bran for pies with richer red sauces and cured meats. So what do you call this kind of pizza? “I am dead set against making any style,” Mr. Bauer said. “We’re starting with the grains and letting them lead us.” All Souls Pizza, 175 Clingman Avenue, Asheville, N.C., 828-254-0169,