http://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/03/dining/10-of-new-york-citys-most-surprising-wine-lists.html 2014-09-15 23:40:30 10 of New York City’s Most Surprising Wine Lists Here are 10 of New York City’s most surprising wine lists, in alphabetical order. === Great wine lists don’t need to be epic length. They don’t require classic, expensive bottles. And they don’t appear only in conventional places; some of the best, in fact, show up where you least expect them. Here are 10 of the city’s most surprising wine lists, in alphabetical order. Some are simply unusual. Others are unexpected or unsung. All are wonderful and satisfying. All’onda The city is thick with Italian restaurants, but unusual selections of Italian wines? Not so much. This Venetian restaurant in Greenwich Village explores some of Italy’s less-traveled wine provinces. The Marches and Emilia-Romagna are both well represented, as are Friuli, Alto Adige and, naturally, Veneto. A 2011 Vespaiolo “Vignasilan” from Contra Soarda for $67 is a revelation, intense yet graceful, while, for bubbles fans, the selections of prosecco and Lambrusco are superb. Burger & Barrel It’s a burger joint with a slightly elevated menu of pub grub and an unexpectedly extensive wine list, hence the alias The Cleveland This intimate restaurant with a lovely garden ought to be nirvana for wine geeks. It specializes in   Fung Tu With its riffs on Chinese dishes, this stylish little place captures the terroir at the intersection of the Lower East Side and Chinatown. The succinct list offers a terrific selection of graceful wines, including a floral, bone-dry Crémant d’Alsace from Valentin Zusslin for $72; a vibrant 2012 California verdelho “Que Saudade” from Forlorn Hope for $52; and a spicy, soulful 2011 Jasnières pineau d’Aunis “Lumière des Sens” from Jean-Paul Robinot for $65. Jason Wagner, a partner, is eager to suggest pairings with unfamiliar dishes. The Gander The extensive global list at this large, casual Flatiron restaurant caters to big spenders and frugal wine lovers alike. On the lower end, I’d try one of the United States’ best chenin blancs, 2011 Sandlands from Amador County for $55, or a delicious 2012 Finger Lakes riesling from Ravines for $38. I might raise the ante with the 2012 “Mineral,” an excellent dry German riesling from Emrich-Schönleber for $69, or I might even splurge on the intense “Les Pierrières,” an extra brut blanc de blancs Champagne from Ulysse Collin for $165. A midrange red selection may include the superb 2010 “Cuvée Jadis” Faugères from Léon Barral for $85, and the incisive 2004 Etna Rosso from Calabretta for $65. Má Pêche People expect surprises at David Chang’s restaurants, but the wine list here may still have shock value. Jordan Salcito, the wine director, has put together a group of 56 bottles all for $56 each. It includes excellent and oddball selections like a 2012 picpoul blanc from the fine Sonoma producer Copain; a 2012 Fontanasanta Nosiola from Elisabetta Foradori, a terrific, distinctive white; a 2013 “Rouge Frais Impérial,” an unusual Corsican red from Abbatucci; and a 2011 Mendocino County Sun Hawk Farm field blend from Salinia, a producer whose wines always intrigue. Those not content to spend $56 have another 56 more-expensive selections. Northern Spy Food Company The wine list at this tiny East Village restaurant is a model of concision. Great selections include the 2012 pinot blanc from Shinn Estate on the North Fork, the smoky 2012 Sumu Kaw syrah from La Clarine Farm in the Sierra Foothills and the 2012 Canavese Rosso, a blend of nebbiolo and barbera from the excellent producer Ferrando in the Piedmont. Maysville This quietly excellent Flatiron restaurant trumpets its enormous bourbon selection, while its superb, worldly wine list is virtually ignored. Good choices in whites might include a 2008 Graacher Himmelreich kabinett riesling from J. J. Prüm in the Mosel for $56, and an excellent white Graves, the 2011 Clos Floridene, for $58. Among reds, Smith-Madrone is always a welcome sight; its 2010 Spring Mountain cabernet sauvignon is $78, while the terrific 2012 SP68, a Sicilian blend from Arianna Occhipinti, is $48. Don’t worry, you can spend big on some good-value older Burgundies, too. M. Wells Steakhouse This idiosyncratic restaurant, hidden away in Long Island City, Queens, doesn’t post its thoughtful, wide-ranging wine list on the web, but you can drink very well here. The curious or perverse might start with the Ritinitis Nobilis from Gaia, a fine example of a Greek retsina, for $36. A more conventional choice might be a 2012 Chablis from the rarely seen producer Laurent Tribut for $72. Among reds, I’d happily settle for a 2012 Alsatian pinot noir from Ostertag for $66, and splurge for a Nuits-St.-George “La Charmotte” 2011 from ThibaultLiger-Belair for $145.   Roberta’s This cinder-block compound in Bushwick, Brooklyn, has gotten more than its share of raves, but who speaks for the wine list? I do. It offers many wonderful choices, like a 2012 pinot noir rosé from Analemma, the excellent Washington producer, for $48; a savory 2011 Quantico Mount Etna bianco from Giulemi for $62, and, for a traditional pizza match, a fine 2008 Chianti Colli Senesi from Pacina for $54. Also: sherries and orange wines galore.