http://www.nytimes.com/2016/10/20/fashion/how-to-get-josephine-baker-waves-the-modern-way.html 2016-10-19 01:02:38 How to Get Josephine Baker Waves, the Modern Way Gone are the halos of tresses, messy topknots and undone waves. The most noteworthy hair at Paris Fashion Week was “done.” === Beauty has been trying hard to look effortless for a few years now. Unfussy hair, in the form of beach waves, undone updos and highlights that look deliberately grown-out, have dominated the runway and real world alike. But for his spring 2017 Givenchy show, Riccardo Tisci asked the hairstylist Guido Palau for a look that was structured and sleek. “It was sculptural,” said Mr. Palau, who used “In fashion, there’s been a big trend of easy hair,” Mr. Palau said. “But now, and rightly so, designers are turning to more of a hairstyle. So we’re seeing girls who we saw as natural for the last couple years in a much different way, which seems exciting and new to the eye.” The shift was particularly noticeable during And that’s the key with the “new done” look: blending carefree with conspicuous. At the “Ruth has very pretty natural hair texture,” the hairstylist Charlotte Taylor said. “But to make it a little more interesting, we experimented with a deep side part, finger waves in front, and sides that were shiny and smooth.” On the red carpet, Ms. Taylor said, trends change out of boredom. “A few years ago, it was all about Hollywood glam waves, but then that was considered cheesy,” she said. “That’s where the disheveled texture came from. People wanted that ‘model off duty’ look. Now there’s beginning to be a different idea.” The hairstylist Nikki Nelms created very deliberate finger waves for Solange Knowles’s “Don’t Touch My Hair” video. The hair was surely an artistic choice, but with the album’s popularity, the throwback style will surely inform and influence street style. For Janelle Monáe at the premiere of the film “Moonlight,” Ms. Nelms gave the singer and actress a deconstructed version of waves. “Janelle wanted to embrace the texture of her hair,” she said. “We created something at the intersection of natural texture and structure. But sometimes not being too neat works, too. It’s whatever you want.” The hair color equivalent of the mussed beach wave has been ombré highlights: grown-out dark roots brightening to shades of blond on the ends. At Balenciaga, the colorist Rachel Bodt evened out the tones to simplify the models’ hair. “Now if hair does have lightness on the ends, it shouldn’t be overly dramatic,” Ms. Bodt said. “It’s not so layered with different colors.” The colorist Rita Hazan points to her most famous client to illustrate the aesthetic difference with a more polished look: “Beyoncé always had dark at the roots, but now she’s really blond. She’s married the roots and ends together. And if she’s doing it, what does that say?”