http://www.nytimes.com/2014/09/28/travel/giving-the-paris-cafe-scene-a-jolt.html 2014-09-23 20:48:33 Giving the Paris Cafe Scene a Jolt Over the last few years, more than a dozen new-generation coffee spots have emerged, offering alternatives to cookie-cutter Parisian cafes. === A decade ago, Channa Galhenage, a Londoner, moved to “It was putrid,” he recalled on a recent afternoon, echoing an oft-heard sentiment from expatriates. “After a long time of drinking coffee like this” — he went on, holding his nose and grimacing — “the idea came to me that I should open something.” Last year, the gregarious Englishman did just that, opening a coffeehouse called Loustic ( Decorated by Dorothée Meilichzon, a 32-year-old French designer known for her elegant bric-a-brac interiors, the cozy space is an assemblage of 1950s geometric wallpapers, rough stone, plank floors and plush handmade furniture. The vibe offers a vintage-cool departure from the predictable tile floors, zinc counters, round marble tables and plastic lattice chairs found in typical Parisian cafes. The coffee is a departure too. Using specialty beans provided by Caffènation, a noted roaster in Antwerp, Loustic champions filter coffee — typically dismissed as “jus de chaussette,” or sock juice, in France — and changes the blends frequently. “We are trying to educate the public that coffee is exactly like wine,” Mr. Galhenage said. “It has its own taste and flavors that come from the region in which it is grown.” He is scarcely the only hyper-caffeinated entrepreneur giving a stylish and flavorful jolt to the hidebound world of cookie-cutter Parisian cafes and their frequently over-roasted industrial espresso. Over the last few years, more than a dozen new-generation spots have emerged, notably in the Third and 10th Arrondissements of the Right Bank. Most are owned by expatriates or by French enthusiasts who discovered the intimate indie coffeehouse concept abroad. Innovative interior design, Wi-Fi and comfortable seats that invite daylong lounging are essential ingredients. High-end filter coffee and daily made baked goods are also de rigueur. And nearly all of the new spots (Loustic is a rare exception) purchase beans from upstart Parisian roasting outfits like Thanks to all of these developments, Paris is finally serving up coffees worthy of the name. This year the city hosted its first coffee-making competition by AeroPress, a manufacturer of innovative brewing devices. Top prize went to Melodie Knight, a barista at A rival for tininess is Steps away, the If you favor books to blouses, And when the time comes to work on your own novel, dissertation or blueprint, Outfitted in duochrome neo-industrial style, the two-year-old cafe is intended “to offer a work space to the new generation of digital artisans who work on computers — webmasters, designers, photographers,” said Felipe Perez, the director and pastry chef. “Five years ago there were almost no specialty cafes in Paris,” Mr. Perez said, explaining that Craft’s French owner drew inspiration from American-style “hangout” coffeehouses he frequented in New York City. “The café in France, and especially Paris, is changing rapidly.”