http://www.nytimes.com/2014/11/05/dining/doughnuts-in-new-york-city-from-carpe-donut-nyc-to-pies-n-thighs.html 2014-11-04 19:17:27 Doughnuts in New York City from Carpe Donut NYC to Pies 'N' Thighs The doughnut scene in New York has turned into an explosion of styles and shapes, which sometimes threaten to capsize the whole idea of a doughnut. === Dough, fried. It is a humble snack, fuel for late-night stakeouts, comfort after a day toiling at the nuclear power plant. Its pleasures are prehistoric — fossilized ring-shaped cakes have been unearthed, dating back 8,000 years — and democratic. Free doughnuts were handed to the huddled arrivals at Ellis Island, to lines of hollow-cheeked men during In New York City, the doughnut no longer resembles the Dutch olykoek that Anna Joralemon started selling in 1673 from a shop on lower Broadway. Along with a hole, it has acquired glazes in Barbie hues, fillings that wheeze forth on first bite, even do-it-yourself accessories like a syringe primed with jam, waiting to be stabbed in. It has ballooned to a bagel’s proportions and shrunk to a teething ring’s; lost its eggs and butter (and its quintessential fluffiness), in deference to vegans; bypassed the fryer for the oven (further sacrificing fluffiness); and been crossbred with a croissant, to widespread hysteria and imitation. (On Monday, Dunkin’ Donuts began selling its own hybrid.) Since my colleague Pete Wells I have no regrets. I do, however, have mixed feelings about the recent explosion of styles and shapes, which sometimes threaten to capsize the whole idea of a doughnut. My survey made me realize that, at heart, I’m a purist — albeit not immune to the appeal of the zanier specimens. The yeast doughnuts at My favorite doughnuts, from A more modest alternative is the sugar doughnut at Carpe Donut NYC Specialists in miniature cake doughnuts, including Then there are the giants. The butter pecan crunch doughnut at Orwasher’s Bakery When is a doughnut no longer a doughnut? On the Upper East Side, Butterfield Express, an extension of the venerable At the vegan bakery Slightly bouncier versions, likewise made without animal products, are found at I must now confess that I have never tried Every corner of New York has its doughnut now. There is room for all of us, the minimalist and the profligate, the nostalgist and the radical. And for me, too, the doughnut reactionary. Toward the end of my tour, I wound up at Oh, this. This is a doughnut.